Beehive shaped rock domes at “The Lost City”, on the King's Canyon Trail

Often given no more than a quick visit, Watarrka National Park offers the photographer an opportunity to experience the solitude of the Australian bush in a richly diverse land. The Park’s isolated location in the heart of Australia is the key to its diversity. The Park lacks the magnificent landscapes found of the canyons of Arizona or Utah; its beauty is found in the subtly of the land. The brilliant sunsets of the bush, as well as the crystal clear night skies are in abundance here.

Watarrka National Park is located in Australia’s Northern Territory, 180 miles (300 km) from Alice Springs or its nearest neighbor to the south, Ayers Rock at 165 miles (280 km). Watarrka encompasses the western end of the George Gill Range, including the most well known natural feature of the park, King’s Canyon.

The park’s central visitor area consists of the 70 room King’s Canyon Resort, two campgrounds, a restaurant and a gas station/grocery store. While there are a few hardy souls that stay in the campground, most of the park’s visitors arrive on a tour bus, staying for less than 24 hours, before being whisked off to other attractions in the Outback.

The best way to experience the park is walking the parks three major trails; the King’s Canyon Walk, King’s Creek Walk, and Kathleen Springs Walk. Each of these trails is different in the effort required and the terrain covered. To get the most out of a full day at the Park, I suggest taking the King’s Canyon Walk in the morning, when the light on the canyon and on the rock formations in the area is at its best. During the middle of the day, take the King’s Creek Walk, followed by the Kathleen Creek Walk in the late afternoon. Return to the Parks visitor area, then take the walk out onto the boardwalk to photograph Carmichael’s Crag (the highest point in the park) in the sunset – make sure to stay to watch the fading light on the Crag after sunset.

King’s Canyon Walk – 6km, 4 hours (Medium – Hard)

The most popular trail in the park, the King’s Canyon Walk is also the most demanding. In addition to your camera gear, you will need sturdy shoes, a good wide brimmed hat, plenty of drinking water, and sunscreen for this trail.

The trail begins with a steep 150 meter climb almost immediately after leaving the parking before flattening at the level of the canyon rim, in area known as “The Lost City.” Lost City is an area of giant sandstone blocks, weathered into domes. Take note of the ripple rock formations, remnants of an inland sea, in this area. The trail continues from there along a mostly flat path, although rocky at times, following the rim of the canyon in places. There are a couple of side trails where you can peer over the side of the canyon.

King's Creek Walk - 2km, 1 hour (Medium)

This Walk follows the creek bed along the bottom of King’s Canyon. Walking along the King’s Creek Walk makes you feel as if you are in a totally different world from the rest of the park. On this walk you are amongst permanent water holes and red river gum trees; here you can hear the birds singing and the leaves rustling. This is a good walk for just exploring, poking among the rocks and just sitting still to see what kind of animals inhabit the canyon floor.

 
Canyon floor, along the King's Creek Walk

This is a fairly easy walk, although you may have to scramble over rocks along the way in places. Note: this walk follows the same route in and out of the canyon.

Kathleen Springs Walk – 2.6km, 1 hour (Easy)

The scenic road through Lincoln Gap has views into the valley and hiking trails at the summit. The steep climb peaks at almost 2,500 feet, and the roads traveled on either side in order to traverse Lincoln Gap Road are quite scenic themselves.

Sunset over the George Gill Range

Watarrka offers a wide variety of photographic activities, whether photographing the landscape or the wildlife. For the landscape photographer my recommendations include:

• Catch the sunset at the King’s Canyon Resort. From the front entrance of the resort, cross the highway and walk out into the boardwalk. The sun, when setting, casts a golden glow on the distant Carmichael’s Craig, while lighting up the straw-colored spinifex grass and mulga tress in the foreground.



• Explore the rock formations of “The Lost City” – catch the rising sun amongst the beehive dome rock formations. This recommendation requires hiking the first portion of the trail while it is still dark, which can be treacherous given the steepness of the initial climb. Scout the trail and the location the day before, and be sure to take a good flashlight with spare batteries. Continue on for another kilometer or so to a canyon overlook. From here, the rising sun lights up the cliff face with a warm glow.



• Photograph the sheer wall of King’s Canyon at sunrise – take the trail in the opposite direction, counterclockwise, than the recommended walking direction. From a point across the canyon you will see the sheer wall of the canyon, warmed by the rising sun. If you have more than one morning at the Park, be sure to take the King’s Creek Walk to photograph the sheer wall of the canyon from below – quite a different perspective.



• Garden of Eden – this area, located within the canyon itself is best photographed later on in the day, when the light can reach the canyon bottom.

You won’t need any specialized photographic equipment to photograph Watarrka, but I would suggest taking split neutral density – this is a desert and the latitude between light and dark areas can be large – and warming filters (81A or Tiffen 812).

This is the Outback. The climate here is very arid, and the temperature can be quite brutal during certain times of the year. The temperature ranges from around 68° in July (winter) to more than 100° in January (summer).

My visits to Watarrka have been in the spring and fall. Of the two, I much prefer the spring; the incessant black files seem to be minimal. During the fall, I had to purchase a hat net to keep the flies out of my face.

If you decide to visit Watarrka National Park in the future, remember, slow down. This park offers a unique glimpse into a wide variety of terrain that is to be found in Central Australia. Sadly, most visitors to the park stay for less than 24 hours; not enough time for more than a cursory glance. There is a lot to photograph, and a lot of exploring to do; with patience.

For further information about Watarrka (King’s Canyon) contact:

Parks and Wildlife Commission of the Northern Territory

Alice Springs Office
Arid Zone Research Institute
Tom Hare Building
South Stuart Highway
Alice Springs NT 0870

PO Box 2130
Alice Springs NT 0871

Ph: (08) 89518211
Fax: (08) 89518268