Great Mosque of Cordoba after sunset from across the Roman Bridge
What do you get when you combine a Catholic Church and a Mosque together? You get the Mosque Cathedral in Córdoba, Spain.
After leaving the futuristic City of Arts and Sciences in Valencia, it was time to try something a little more historical. I had seen photos of Córdoba, with the Roman Bridge compelling, and after what seemed like a short train ride I was there.
For this segment of my travels in Spain I chose to stay at the NH Collection Amistad Córdoba, located in the heart of the old Jewish Quarter of the historical old town center. I found out later that this hotel consisted of two noble houses from 17th and 18th century palaces that were combined. I can't suggest this hotel highly enough; the rooms are quiet and spacious with a beautiful courtyard just outside each room. Its location made it a perfect base to explore the old town.
The streets in this area of the old town are winding and narrow, which just adds to its charm. On my way to the hotel, my taxi had barely enough room to pass through (in more than one case people had to step into doorways to let us pass).
Great Mosque of Cordoba
I have seen this referred to as both the Great Mosque of Cordoba and Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba. Either description seems to fit perfectly given its nature and history. It's a mixture of architectural styles superimposed on one another, the most obvious being elements from an Iberian Peninsula Mosque (built between 785 AD to 787 AD) and a later conversion into a Cathedral by King Ferdinand III of Castile (1236 AD).
There was a long line to get in and when purchasing tickets you need to specify which time slot you want the enter. The tickets sell out quickly, but I'd purchased my tickets online before arriving and didn't need to wait in a long line.
The next morning I was again walking over the Roman Bridge in search of a sunrise with a view of the Grand Mosque. In the square, just outside the Grand Mosque there were few tourists, but the local population was enjoying the morning walking and jogging on the bridge. I passed a large number of schoolgirls in Islamic garb sitting on the steps at the Plaza del Triunfo talking and giggling amongst themselves.
Roman Bridge
The Roman Bridge is a busy place, a natural gathering point for visitors. The city was crowded during my visit (mid-October) and the bridge reflected that. There were vendors, outdoor musicians and people gathered in conversation and just generally enjoying themselves. Walking from one end of the bridge, especially near sunset, meant weaving around them.
The Roman Bridge spans the River Guadalquivir, making it a natural meeting point. The name, Guadalquivir comes from Arabic, for "large river" and is an important source of freshwater for farming and irrigation for the region.
Sunset was fast approaching, and with the crowds it was difficult to find a place where I could wait, but eventually I found a spot from which to photograph the Grand Mosque at sunset. This was my last night in Córdoba and the beginning of a long journey back to the Texas gulf coast, so I wanted to enjoy listening to the people around me having a good time.
Closer to sunset the clouds started forming making for a much more dramatic end to the day. The photo at the top was the result. After a quick stop at the local Starbucks, I was able to go back to the hotel with fond memories and dreams of one day returning.
City Views
I didn't concentrate on any locations other than the Grand Mosque and Roman Bridge, due to time constraints, but I did explore the historic center.
Córdoba is a modern city of 325,000 people, but the historic center is what brings many visitors, with its wealth of monuments, preserving large traces of Roman, Islamic, and Christian times, combined with shopping and restaurants.
The historic old town center comprises the buildings and narrow winding streets around the cathedral, bounded by the River Guadalquivir including the Roman Bridge and the Calahorra Tower to the south.
In memory of Love
The Monument of the Lovers by, celebrating the love story of the great Andalusian poet Ibn Zaydun ( Cordoba, 1003 - Seville, 1071 ) and Princess Wallada (born in Cordoba in 1001 - died March 26, 1091). The poem is presented in both Castilian and Arabic:
"I fear for you, my beloved so much, from even my own sight, even the ground you tread, even the hours that pass threaten to snatch you away from me. Even if I were able to conceal you within the pupils of my eyes and hide you there until the Day of Judgment my fear would still not be allayed." "Your love has made me famous among high and low your face devours my feelings and thoughts. When you are absent, I cannot be consoled, but when you appear, all my troubles fly away, as If I have the whole humanity by my side"
Córdoba was a joy to explore. I found so many little details and many historic buildings that I just wasn't able to visit on a short visit. While Córdoba was crowded, I left with a desire to one day return and experience again the history, the grand architecture and sit on the River Guadalquivir at sunset.
All images were taken with a Nikon Z8, on either the Nikkor Z 24-120mm f4 S or Nikkor Z 14-30mm f4 S lens, in October 2023.