A View from the Charles Bridge, Prague

Tue Oct 17, 2017Cities
Prague, Czech Republic

What is there not to love about Prague? If it was possible to sum up Prague in one location, which it isn’t, the Charles Bridge (Karlův most) would be that location. Yet, the bridge has a life all its own.

Sound of Music

As I neared the bridge, I began to hear the sweet sound of violins emanating from it, further away and quieter, in the background I could just make out the melodic tones of the blues. Prague has a musical quality to it and the Charles Bridge is no exception. Not surprisingly, it was in Prague that Mozart chose to introduce his Symphony No. 38 in D major (or why it's called the "Prague Symphony"). The music I was hearing fit right into my expectations of Prague.

Street musician playing for the crowd on the Charles Bridge.

As I walked closer to the source of the music, I saw a small quartet of cellos and violins, but it was a woman playing the violin that captured my attention and mesmerized me with her playing. She seemed oblivious to everyone around her, sensing only the music as she played. I thought surely, she must be a concert violinist, such was the quality of her playing (I never found out whether she was or not). When she finished the crowd around her erupted in applause of appreciation.

Off in the distance, I heard one of the group of blues players announce that “he was from Los Angeles, and had spent the last month performing on the bridge.” I thought, with some jealousy, what a wonderful experience, travelling to Prague, to simply play the blues for anyone who would listen. I can’t help but wonder what other places he's traveled to for this reason.

People Watching

Watching the people on the bridge, exciting and confusing at the same time (due to the crowding), takes a backstage to the bridge itself. The Bridge, if nothing else, is a living museum; one that feels right at home in this historical city.

Charles Bridge Tower as seen from the Old Town Tower Bridge (completed 1380), one of three towers anchoring the bridge.

I can clearly see how the architecture of the bridge fits in with the rest of the old town, with its Gothic and Baroque elements and design. The builders of the bridge protected it with the construction of three bridge towers on its ends; two of them on the Lesser Quarter (Malá Strana) side with the third on the Old Town side. I found the bridge easy to walk, in spite of the throngs of people and vendors selling their wares. Its cobblestones paving lends to its charm.

Statues in History

Lining both sides of the bridge are 30 baroque statues on parapets, 15 on each side, celebrating historical and biblical figures. The statues now are all replicas, replaced over the years due to flooding and environmental damage (the originals were erected between 1706 and 1714). I noticed that on several of the statues, people had rubbed their hands over the reliefs, seeking good luck or a return to Prague, I suppose.

Statue of Saints Barbara, Margaret, and Elizabeth (1707) on the south side of the Charles Bridge.

Statue of St. John the Baptist (1857 by Josef Max) on the north side of the Charles Bridge.

Watching the people on the bridge, listening to the music, and reveling in the architecture made for an enjoyable few hours. But there is much more to the Charles Bridge. The views of the city from the bridge are awe inspiring. The Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral standing at the top of a hill, overlooking the city, ablaze with light as the sun sets, the Gothic styled buildings lining the Vltava River, over which the bridge crosses, left in impression in my mind that rivals Berlin and Vienna for the grandeur of its architecture.

At the Ends of the Bridge

Early one morning I crossed over the Charles Bridge onto Kampa Island (Na Kampe). The crowds has not arrived yet, so for the residents of the island, it was still peaceful and quiet.

Early Morning Walk on Kampa Island.

The end of the day called for a return visit to the bridge. The architecture of the buildings in Prague take on a different feel in the evening light. They are skillfully lit, highlighting a particular facet or angle of the building.

Charles Bridge Museum and the St. Francis Of Assissi Church by Night.

Beginning and End

All too soon, my short visit to Prague was over and it was time for me to begin my long journey home. I left Prague, taking the 12:00pm Intercity Express (ICE) train to Dresden, Germany. Travelling across the Czech countryside, I couldn't help but reflect on my visit to Prague. My visit began with a visit to the Charles Bridge, and ended with a visit to the Charles Bridge. The Bridge, being an icon of the city, seemed to sum up my experiences in Prague.

Prague Castle and St Vitus Cathedral on the Hill as seen from the Charles Bridge.

Update: I am busily preparing for a return trip to Prague in the fall. There will be more of the Charles Bridge to come.


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