Seeking the Music in Salzburg
Salzburg, Austria
Salzburg loves Mozart. Throughout the city, in the narrow alleys and open squares, his face can be seen in store windows and portraits. This is the city where Mozart was born (27 January 1756). It's also the home of the movie "Sound of Music."
In the Altstadt
I spent the entirety of this trip in the Altstadt, or Old Town, staying at the Radisson Blu Hotel Altstadt.
The Altstadt lies between the Salzach River and Mönchsberg mountain, one of five mountains surrounding Salzburg. This is an area of winding, cobblestone alleyways, Baroque churches and one of Europe's largest intact medieval fortresses. Even without Mozart and the Von Trapp family, Salzburg is steeped in history, dating back to 15 BC when the Roman Empire merged the area settlements into one city - Salzburg.
Once again, I found numerous shops selling Mozartkugeln and other Mozart souvenirs. This was expected, after all, Mozartkugeln (originally known as "Mozart-Bonbon"), which is a praline made of mainly chocolate, marzipan and nougat was created in 1890 by a confectioner in Salzburg, as was Mozart.
The Altstadt has many cobble stone walkways with shops, making it a walkers and shoppers paradise. I spent hours walking these walkways, stopping for beer and pommes frites (french fries), looking at doors, signs and other small details of the city.
St Peter's Abbey is one of the oldest churches in Salzburg (founded in 696). While walking through the courtyard of the Abbey I heard the harmonious melody of a choir singing in the Abbey Church. The church sanctuary was open for visiting, so I entered quietly and took a spot near the rear where I could listen to them and discretely photograph the Romanesque interior. I left as quietly as I entered so as not to disturb them. I wasn't able to name the piece the choir was singing, but I like to think it was a composition by Mozart. With a view like this, that's understandable.
The Abbey's cemetery grounds was featured in the Sound of Music, where the Von Trapp family was hiding after fleeing the stage.
The Kollegienkirche (Collegiate Church), is the church of the University of Salzburg. It was built in Baroque style by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach, was dedicated in 1707. This view is from the Universitätsplatz (University) Square. A farmer's market takes place in this square, Monday through Friday.
Salzburg Cathedral is located adjacent to Residenzplatz and Domplatz in the Altstadt area, and is an imposing example architecture of the Early Baroque period. Originally built in 767 AD and rebuilt in 1167 and 1598. The remains of these two original churches can be viewed in the cathedral crypt.
I entered the plaza from the western arch entrance, to be greeted by the sun rising behind the cathedral.
In the Fortress
Standing high above the city of Salzburg, Festung Hohensalzburg (Fortress Hohensalzburg) dominates the Altstadt. In the year 1077, Archbishop Gebhard ordered the construction of the fortress. It was gradually expanded during the following centuries. The Fortress features prominately in the Sound of Music, making it well recognized.
To visit the Fortress, I took the funicular railway from the downtown, which runs every 10 minutes. It is possible to walk to the fortress, in about 30 minutes, but requires a steep climb. Inside the fortress there is the permanent Fortress Museum, highlighting its history and the lives of those who inhabited it.
After visiting the Fortress I stopped at the Panoramarestaurant zur Festung Hohensalzburg for coffee and to relax my weary feet. From the outside dining area, I had a awe inspiring view of the surrounding mountains.
Marionette Museum
At last, I found the Von Trapp family at the Marionette Museum. I say this with "tongue in cheek" as anyone who has seen the movie will recognize locations from there the movie was filmed everywhere in the city - the Altstadt is compact.
Mozart Again
Finally, we have Mozart's Birthplace, with a photo taken from, you guessed it, the local Starbucks.
What I Found
I came here looking for the music in Salzburg, and that is what I found. Mozart is everywhere, the Sound of Music is everywhere, but the city itself, has an atmosphere of music, as I experienced when witnessing the choir rehearsal at the Franciscan Church.
I've read that Prague also lays claim to Mozart .... perhaps, one day.
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